Continuing its recent pattern of staggering new releases throughout the year, Patek Philippe dropped three new chronographs on an eagerly waiting world: Ref. 5204R-011; Ref. 5905/1A-001; and Ref. 5930P-001. To begin with, keen observers of Patek Philippe references will immediately realise that these are not all-new watches. All three are existing chronograph wristwatches with important and significant complicated movements that are now available in new materials, with new dial executions. With Ref. 5905/1A-001 and Ref. 5930P-001 in particular, we see on-trend elements that position these watches as novelties to catch the eye of the contemporary collector.
Having just seen these watches virtually, Patek Philippe tells us that we will be able to see them at their offices soon, and that they are on the way to retailers now (at least in Singapore, and other key markets that happen to be supply chain hubs). If you are a collector in good standing, no doubt you may have already received a call (or two). We will certainly have more to say about the watches soon enough, but for now, we will confirm the general buzz: Ref. 5905 will be the most talked-about, and likely the most sought-after.
This is because it is a rare Patek Philippe multi-complication wristwatch in steel — we recall lusting after Ref. 5960/1A back in 2014 or 2015. It is a fine example of the annual calendar coexisting harmoniously with the chronograph; it is worth remembering that the annual calendar is closely associated with Patek Philippe because the manufacture introduced it in 1996. Ref. 5905 is also significant because it has been issued with a steel bracelet that looks the part of an integrated piece. The firm’s communication team notes that the bracelet is the same one currently deployed for the Aquanaut Ref. 5167/1A. The green dial here is the same shade as used in Ref. 5711/1A.
Backtracking to Ref. 5204R-011, this watch is a proper grand complication because it features the winning combination of split seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar. For a traditional fine watchmaking stalwart such as Patek Philippe, only a wristwatch that hits all the right notes can be called a grand complication, which the Genevan brand does in its own press materials. This watch exists in the current collection in rose gold, but is now also available with a slate grey dial and a matching shiny slate grey calf leather strap with embossed alligator pattern. This is one of a certain number of Patek Philippe watches offered with both sapphire crystal and solid casebacks. We cannot imagine anyone not wanting to view the manual-winding calibre CHR 29-535 PS Q; we will have more to say on this movement and the watches in general but we have a sense that we should wait till we see the watches, since that is just around the corner.
The third and final chronograph is Ref. 5930P-001, which brings together the world timer and the chronograph. The world timer complication is, like the annual calendar, deeply tied with Patek Philippe, thanks to its first such watch in 1939, reference 1415. Auction houses, in reminding collectors of the importance of the world time complication to Patek Philippe also point out its particular scarcity. They note that not a single Patek Philippe wristwatch with this complication was made between 1965 to 2000, despite strong demand. With ref. 5930P this year, there is now a bright green dial in play, with matching bottle green alligator strap. The names of the cities are also printed in green.
For other specifications and, in particular prices, please check the Patek Philippe website. As mentioned, we will be adding more depth ourselves in coming stories.